And on with
our winter travels. From Zdiar we took a train across Slovakia to be able to
see some of the countryside. Unfortunately, it was one of the older trains and there
seemed to be little or no heat. After six hours we were a bit frozen,
especially poor Cheryl who was nursing a cold.
We ended up
in the capitol of Bratislava in the southwest corner of the country, and then
caught a train to Budapest—luckily a shorter and much warmer ride. Spent the
next three days wandering around the beautiful city of Budapest. Divided between the flat “pest” side and the
hilly “buda” side (they were once two different cities) by the Danube River,
Budapest is a wonderful city to explore on foot. Every street corner seemed to
bring new architectural wonders and the bridges spanning the river gave us some
great views of both sides. The weather continued on with its lousy winter
weather cycle, but it cleared somewhat on the last day.
A couple of
the highlights of the city for me: The Baths: Budapest is situated over deep
underground hot springs, and they have provided the city with hot mineral baths
throughout its history. A day at the baths is a fine thing—we chose the old
bathhouse in the central park of the city frequented by the locals. Fifteen
dollars got us a day long pass to hang out in one of the three outdoor pools or
many indoor pools, sauna, etc. Extra money gives you massages, pedicures,
various therapies, any spa activity you can think of. But we were content with
the pools and spent all of our time in the outdoor pools, going from the
slightly cooler one with the very fun whirlpools and the hotter pool where one
just floated in the water ad soaked up all that warmth. And indeed it was the
local hang out—we saw men standing chest deep in the water engrossed in a chess
game set up on the pool’s edge and many families. And it also seems to be a good place to meet
people. I got to talking with one woman around my age from Ireland who had come
to Budapest to have dental work done, apparently being of much higher quality
than in Ireland. We had quite the
discussion about periodontal disease, implants versus dentures, new state of
the art dentures (she thought mine looked great), etc., etc.
When we finally dragged ourselves out of the
baths, I was feeling pretty good in both body and spirit.
House of
Terror: This museum, housed in the building that was first the Gestapo
headquarters during the Nazi occupation and then the headquarters of the secret
police during the communist years, is the most powerful museum I think I have ever
been to. Though it wasn’t created for tourists, and few of the signs are in
English, there is enough English in the exhibits to understand what they are about
and you almost really don’t need it, as you are carried along by the multimedia
presentations in every room. Many of the videos of survivors telling their
stories were subtitled in English, plus there were English handouts in each
room. Perhaps most haunting was the slow descent by elevator to the basement
level where the cells and executions were located, watching as you go down to a
video of a former guard describing how executions were administered. The final
room of the exhibit is a “victimizer” hall, with small photos from that era of
many of the administrators of punishment, many of whom are still alive.
I wish I
had come to the museum with more energy to stay longer, but I was glad I had
made an effort to experience what I did, as this is part of the history of the
people in this part of the world.
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Holocaust memorial along the banks of the Danube River where Jews were shot and thrown into the river. |
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House of Terror museum, former home of Gestapo and communist secret police. |
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The Baths--one of the outside pools. |
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Inside of an old synagogue. |
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Looking across the Danube to church high on Buda side. |
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Looking across Danube to the Pest side. |
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House of Parliamet on Pest side. |
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